Wednesday, September 5, 2012

In which I move into my place



September 3rd 2012 Monday 12:35am



Clearly I'm pretty awesome at updating these things frequently. So, updates (warning, this one is long). Tuesday we all had interviews with Nuria, our program director, and then we were fed an enormous dinner. Our classmate Nigel had missed his flight on Monday, so he showed up to the ranch on Wednesday a little before lunch, to our cheers and applause. 
#classicnigel

Wednesday we spent most of the day in orientation, learning about some things that will be different here than in the United States, such as the intensity of street harassment, how people greet each other (kiss on the right cheek, but don't kiss your doorman or taxi driver!), the frequency of robberies, and other things. We also talked about homestay expectations, the schedule of the program, the rules, and what's expected of us as students.

After another enormous lunch Audrey and I walked around the ranch with all five of the awesome dogs and took some pictures. In the afternoon, we were given transit maps and told how to use the transportation system and assigned partners with whom we'd visit an assigned location and observe whatever we could. Meg and I were assigned a visit to la Plaza de Mayo. After we finished with orientation and dinner, our whole group hung out and played games for a while and then we went to bed. By "went to bed" I mean that everyone in the program went to sleep and I stayed up till about 4:30am, with my dear friend The Internet. This time zone is one hour ahead of EST, so four hours ahead of PST which is what I'm used to.

Thursday we were out the door and headed into Buenos Aires by 9am. Our first stop was IDES, el Instituto de Desarrollo Económico y Social (The Institute of Economic and Social Development), which is where we will be taking classes for the rest of the program. We had a tour of the building (which has wifi, thank goodness) and received our stipends that we will get for lunch each day (35 pesos, which works out to about $7.50. for reference, an empanada costs about 6-8 pesos). Our host families provide breakfast and dinner.

After checking into the hotel we set off in pairs to our destinations, Meg and I stopped for empanadas de queso y cebolla (cheese and onion) and then got on the subway. The subway here is called the Subte, short for Subterraneo. It's one of the oldest subway systems in the world, which shows, but I like it anyway. It's INCREDIBLY crowded, at basically every hour of the day. You will usually have someone pressed against you on every side, and you need to just clutch your bag to your chest and make sure there's nothing in your pockets. We got to the Plaza de Mayo without incident, and walked around the entire area. Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo are a group of women who protest in the Plaza de Mayo once a week, which they started during la Guerra Sucia (the Dirty War) during which thousands of students, artists and intellectuals were kidnapped and tortured by the military government. Their mothers stood up to the regime and went to the Plaza every week to make people aware of what had happened to their children. They weren't present when we visited, but the signs were still posted in their usual area where they protest.



The Plaza de Mayo is the oldest part of the city and the center of the government of the country. La Casa Rosada (basically a pink version of the White House, but la presidenta actually lives out in the 'burbs) is here, as well as numerous other landmarks.
La Casa Rosada
Proof that I am actually here!

After we had explored the area, Meg and I headed over to Calle Florida to check out some of the major streets and see if there was an area where we could change some US dollars. We ran into two other students from our program but parted ways again so we could explore. We saw some pretty fabulous signs, like El Palacio de la Papa Frita.
El Palacio de la Papa Frita!


Where the jean always lives.


Meg and I had some misadventures (her ankle was sprained and we had to go back to the hotel and ice it and we got lost and had our first cab ride) and made it back to IDES an hour late, a fabulous first impression! We met with the homestay coordinator (Julieta) and finally learned a little about our homestay families. I found out that I was going to live with Claudia, a divorced mother of three grown children who don't live at home. She has a dog, which is great because I specifically requested pets. My apartment is a 15-20 minute walk to IDES, which is also fantastic. After we got this info Nuria and Maria (who goes by Mauge [MOW(rhymes with now)-hey]) took us out to a really nice restaurant. 

After supper we returned to the hotel and then a few of us went out to the bar next door, where we played pool with an old guy named Daniel (but pronounced all dahn-ee-elle) from our hotel, and after he started hitting on me a lot I headed back to go to sleep, cause ew.

The city is very European looking, with a Latin American flavor. The architecture is beautiful in many areas, but there are also shanty-towns and seriously run-down areas.

 The sidewalks are in disrepair even in busy areas, there are a lot of boards on the sidewalk that you need to walk on to get over giant holes in the ground. 


A fairly typical sidewalk, some are a lot worse though, even on really major streets.

Also, the vast majority of people don't pick up after their dogs, which means you have to keep an eye out to avoid poopboots. It's interesting, even though we were warned that the girls in the program would deal with a lot more street harrassment, I've actually heard less cat-calls and other such things than I do in most US cities (not counting Portland which is a magical fairyland full of freakishly respectful elvenfolk), possibly because I don't make eye contact (there's poop on the ground, man), I walk super fast and I don't really stand out as a tourist unless I'm in a large group. Actually, that's one of the most exciting things so far for me: even people who demonstrate later on that they can speak some English first try to speak to me in Spanish. I've only been addressed in English 2-3 times since I've been here.

On Friday we had more orientation activities, but in the evening we finally got to meet our host families. It was very exciting! Claudia and I went back to her place and I got to meet her dog Alma and see the apartment where I'll be living for the next few months. Claudia loves doing all kinds of crafts so all the rooms are decorated very carefully she has all kinds of cool stuff that's she's made all over the house.


My bedroom


The apartment


The view

She also makes pretty awesome pizza, as I rapidly discovered. She doesn't want me to have to do any work around the house, which I keep feeling awkward about. She tells me 'no, no, tranquilas, relajarse!' whenever I try to wash a glass or offer to help her with the cooking. I've finally managed to be allowed to put things back into the refrigerator after a meal. She's kind of quiet and keeps to herself mostly, but she really likes hosting students, I've the 10th girl she's hosted with SIT. She also doesn't speak ANY English at all, which will probably be pretty great for me in the long run. The first night at dinner we talked about our families and the prior students she'd had, and then ended up on the topic of caste systems in India, so I think we're going to be ok. 

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